bluing steel with a torchbluing steel with a torch

Sign up for wikiHow's weekly email newsletter. It is not nice stuff. To remove pitting and keep the barrel profile intact requires skill with a file, and that requires hands-on training. The cabinet is then sealed. Thats one way to get dyspeptic to write articles! The process was to coat the gun parts in an acid solution, let the parts rust uniformly, then immerse the parts in boiling water to convert the red oxide Fe2O3 to black oxide Fe3O4, which forms a more protective, stable coating than the red oxide; the boiling water also removes any remaining residue from the applied acid solution (often nitric acid and hydrochloric acid diluted in water). Sometimes at this point, I come just a fraction away from the heat to go through colours a bit slower. Gee, Im thinkin Duro or cero coat maybe even Krylon might be a good enough.. Hot blueing is a good process, especially if you have a lot of iron to shove through the blueing process quickly. Have proper ventilation and use proper modern safety gear! $36.73. "Bluing" is the process of oxidizing steel to create a durable, corrosion-resistant layer. I use kerosene to wet my paper from 500 on up. Alternatively, You could store them in a hard case (like a pelican with a purge) and throw some desiccant packs in there as well. Dont want to get any of the liquid on you its 700F. Being prepared is important if you can not measure the temp. Keep a fire extinguisher near your workstation in case of a fire. Red rust is Fe2O3, and is incomplete rust it will continue allowing the surface to corrode over time hence the oil or wax. If you dont drain the barrel or action recesses properly before putting a barrel or action into a hot salt tank, then you will find out in a hell of a hurry as the water flashes to steam under the surface and again, splatters hot, highly caustic lye/nitrite salts all over you and your shop. Old school smiths use something called washing soda to strip oil off guns. It is usually inadvisable to use cold bluing as a touch-up where friction is present. This is not necessary as long as you can hold your item appropriately and not cover where it is to be heated. You should keep guns in a safe, if you can. "https://theshootingmystery.tumblr.com/", "I have very limited knowledge as to how metal can be manipulated for different applications. In fact most guides no matter their material cast iron to bronze and often bearing races are installed the same way. Dont mess with hot salts. Todos los derechos reservados. I have also had good results with 5w/30 motor oil, I've also used two-stroke oil with good results. All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published. Shooting Mystery is an independent website that provides content for informational purposes only. YouTube - Nitre bluing a few gun parts. This step should be done before heating the steel, as the steel should be quenched immediately after removing from heat. *Potassium Nitrate is an oxidizer. I heat treated a piece of carbon steel to make it less likely to wear (using its edge as a cutting surface in a wood turning application). For the final step, we let the components cool down in water displacing oil. Itll take perhaps 20 minutes to really dry down. Its nice when something can be re-used a time or two, especially when used in diversified ways. -Something to hold your piece with, make sure it's appropriate to hold it with so it doesn't get too hot in your hands. Safety is the number one priority so protect your body as much as possible. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/8\/81\/Harden-Steel-Step-1-Version-3.jpg\/v4-460px-Harden-Steel-Step-1-Version-3.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/8\/81\/Harden-Steel-Step-1-Version-3.jpg\/aid1214287-v4-728px-Harden-Steel-Step-1-Version-3.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"